commit 035f02eaf2fd5168224985293699437193728640
parent bef3f82432f69b7cdc6c48973e82bb147d560748
Author: Chris Bracken <chris@bracken.jp>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2024 17:01:45 -0800
Add pages on visiting Japan
Diffstat:
| A | content/japan.md | | | 79 | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
| A | content/japan/kyoto.md | | | 150 | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
| A | content/japan/tokyo.md | | | 89 | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
3 files changed, 318 insertions(+), 0 deletions(-)
diff --git a/content/japan.md b/content/japan.md
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+title = "Visiting Japan"
++++
+
+### City-specific info
+
+* [Kyoto・京都](kyoto)
+* [Tokyo・東京](tokyo)
+
+
+### Transportation
+
+* If you have an iPhone, [add a Suica card][ios_suica] in Apple Wallet. If not,
+ pick one up from any JR station. At last check, physical Suica cards were no
+ longer available due to a semiconductor shortage, tourists can pick up a
+ [Welcome Suica][welcome_suica] card, but these are ONLY available at Narita
+ and Haneda airports.
+
+[ios_suica]: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207155
+[welcome_suica]: https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/welcomesuica/welcomesuica.html
+
+
+### Luggage
+* If at all possible, limit your luggage to carry-on sized suitcases and use
+ laundry machines at hotels. Lugging large suitcases through crowded stations
+ and on trains -- particularly on weekdays during rush hour -- can be pretty
+ inconvenient. If you need a large suitcase, consider also bringing a carry-on
+ sized suitcase containing two days worth of clothing, then see the next point.
+* Luggage can be shipped by courier ([Kuroneko Yamato][kuroneko]), typically
+ overnight, to anywhere in the country for very reasonable prices (~¥3000). You
+ can do this from most hotels and convenience stores. Shipping to airports
+ typically takes TWO days.
+* Hotels are happy to hold luggage after checkout at the desk for free,
+ typically up until end-of-day, so there's no need to lug bags around. If you
+ prefer, most train stations offer coin lockers of various sizes where you can
+ place bags. If they're full, ask station staff and they'll point you to open
+ lockers, or sometimes hold them at the information desk.
+
+[kuroneko]: https://www.kuronekoyamato.co.jp/ytc/en/send/services/airport/
+
+
+### Banking and payments
+* Most Japanese ATMs won't work with foreign cards. You can find ATMs that work
+ with foreign cards in every 7-11. ([ATM Locator][atm_locator])
+* When paying at stores and restaurants via credit card, the machine may
+ occasionally offer a choice between paying in yen or your own currency. If
+ your card doesn't impose foreign transaction fees, it's almost always cheaper
+ to choose to pay in yen. The rate offered by these machines aren't great.
+* I'd recommend always carrying cash. Most businesses accept credit cards, but
+ you'll still find places that either don't take cards or where your card
+ mysteriously doesn't work.
+* Convenience stores and some vending machines allow payment via Suica card.
+
+[atm_locator]: https://www.sevenbank.co.jp/intlcard/index2.html
+
+
+### Food and dining
+* In large department stores and some office buildings, you'll almost always
+ find restaurants on the top couple floors. In Tokyo, this can mean spectacular
+ views.
+* In the first basement (B1) level of most department stores, you'll find the
+ most amazing collection of to-go food counters with everything from simple
+ yakisoba through incredibly fancy Japanese and western cakes and desserts. If
+ you're looking for nicely-packaged food gifts for friends back home, this is a
+ great place to get them. It's also a great place to grab food for a picnic in
+ the park.
+* There is no tipping in Japan. Service is expected to be good, and restaurant
+ staff are generally paid reasonable wages.
+
+### Shoes
+* In many restaurants, particularly more traditional ones, there are places
+ where you'll need to take your shoes off. Typically these will be obvious
+ since they'll have a step up from stone floor onto wood/tatami. If you're
+ obviously non-Japanese, the staff will definitely let you know to take your
+ shoes off. Typically you'll leave them there. The staff may place them in shoe
+ cabinets and return them to you when you leave.
+* Many temples/castles may also have places where you're asked to remove your
+ shoes and either place them on shelves, or in a plastic bag and carry them
+ with you.
diff --git a/content/japan/kyoto.md b/content/japan/kyoto.md
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+title = "Kyoto・京都"
++++
+
+## General wandering around town
+
+### Nishiki market・錦市場
+Kawaramachi Station (Karasuma subway line)・河原町駅（地下鉄烏丸線）
+
+You should totally do this. It's an awesome walk through a working market
+selling everything from miso to spices to bowls and teacups to fish. There are a
+bunch of restaurants around here too.
+
+### Pontocho・先斗町
+Pontocho is a narrow street that runs north-south on the west side of the Kamo
+river. Lined with restaurants and typical Kyoto style [inuyarai][]. Definitely
+worth a visit at night. In the summer, many of the restaurants along the river
+attach large decks for outdoor dining in the evening. ([Wikipedia][pontocho])
+
+[pontocho]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ponto-chō
+[inuyarai]: https://www.japan-architecture.org/inuyarai/
+
+### Ne-ne no michi・ねねの道
+Kawaramachi station (Tozai subway line)・河原町駅（地下鉄東西線）
+Gion-shijo station (Keihan line)・祇園四条駅（京阪線）
+
+If you do the walk through Yasaka shrine to Kiyomizu temple, wander through here
+on the way. It's a touristy but fun old-school area of Kyoto. You'll probably
+see a bunch of fake maiko (geisha apprentices) wandering around, but sometimes
+real ones too. ([More info][nene_no_michi])
+
+[nene_no_michi]: https://www.japan-experience.com/all-about-japan/kyoto/attractions-excursions/nene-no-michi
+
+## Shrines and temples
+
+### Fushimi-Inari shrine・伏見稲荷大社
+Fushimi Inari Station (Keihan line)・伏見稲荷駅（京阪線）
+
+This is the well-known shrine with the thousands of red 'torii' gates.
+Definitely worth a visit. It gets crowded during the day but if you go early in
+the morning (6:30 or even 7am), you'll practically have the place to yourself.
+After the first set of gates you end up at a sort of second area with a couple
+little shops etc, but keep following the narrow steps up and there's some nice
+hiking up higher (and it's less crowded). ([Wikipedia][fushimi_inari]).
+
+[fushimi_inari]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fushimi_Inari-taisha
+
+
+### Shimogamo shrine・下鴨神社
+Demachiyanagi Station (Karasuma subway line)・出町柳駅（地下鉄烏丸線）
+
+Built in the 5th century, but there's been stuff there since the 8th century BC.
+One of 17 Unesco world heritage sites in Japan. There are sometimes festivals,
+events, marriages, here. Fall colours should be nice too in the short walk
+through the forest to get there. ([Wikipedia][shimogamo_shrine])
+
+[shimogamo_shrine]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimogamo_Shrine
+
+
+### Kiyomizu temple・清水寺
+Gojo Station (Karasuma subway line)・五条駅（地下鉄烏丸線）
+Kiyomizu-gojo Station (Keihan line)・清水五条駅（京阪線）
+
+Worth a visit even though it’ll be busy with tourists. The area around is fun
+too. Another Unesco world heritage site, autumn leaves are great and there’s a
+good view of Kyoto. Built ~1400 years ago. A couple options to get there:
+1. Start at Yasaka shrine (Tozai subway line: Sanjo station or Higashiyama
+ station, or Keihan line: Sanjo station) wander through it, till you end up in
+ Maruyama park. There’ll be some small ponds and a cafe or two, turn right
+ (south) and find Ne-ne-no-michi (a kind of narrow street) and wander through
+ the winding streets from there, and up the hill. Before you head up though
+ consider turning north and making a quick visit to Chion-in (see below) since
+ it’s about a 2 min walk from there.
+2. Start at Gojo-Zaka and head up this narrowish path called 'Toribeno Sando'
+ through that goes past Toribeyamataishakutenotsumyo Temple and through the
+ big spooky graveyard. Or do both -- up Matsubara-dōri and down the hill.
+ Japanese cemeteries can be pretty photogenic.
+
+([Wikipedia][kiyomizu_temple])
+
+[kiyomizu_temple]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiyomizu-dera
+
+
+### Chion-in・知恩院
+Shijo Karasuma Station (Karasuma subway line)・四条烏丸駅（地下鉄烏丸線）
+Shijo Station (Keihan line)・四条駅（京阪線）
+Higashiyama Station (Tozai subway line)・東山駅（地下鉄東西線）
+
+I’m kind of embarrassed to say that it took me 33 years of visiting and living
+in Kyoto to actually go inside, but definitely worth a visit. Go through Yasaka
+Shrine to the east and when you get to Maruyama park, there’ll be a couple ponds
+and some shops. Turn north here and walk up the road a couple minutes till get
+you to a massive gate called San-mon (三問), head up the stairs and go inside.
+([Wikipedia][chion_in])
+
+[chion_in]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chion-in
+
+### Nanzenji・南禅寺
+Keage Station (Tozai subway line)・蹴上駅（地下鉄東西線）
+
+This is one of my personal favourite temples. There are usually not too many
+tourists, but if you want to check out a 'real' temple, it's definitely worth a
+check out on a day you feel like a quiet laid back walk. Also good for fall
+colours, and it's got a some neat nooks and crannies and smaller areas to
+explore right next door. Even though they charge ~300 yen to go up to the top of
+the big gate, the view is good and you can just sit down on the balcony up there
+and check out the view/read a book, etc. ([Wikipedia][nanzenji])
+
+[nanzenji]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanzen-ji
+
+### Daitoku-ji・大徳寺
+Kitaoji (Karasuma subway line) + 15 min walk・北大路駅（地下鉄烏丸線）
+
+Probably the highest temple + garden density in Kyoto.
+([Wikipedia][daitokuji])
+
+[daitokuji]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daitoku-ji
+
+### Nijo Castle (Tozai subway line: Nijojo-mae station).
+Technically not a shrine or a temple, and not a big huge badass castle like
+Himeji or Matsumoto, but lots of artwork on 'fusuma' sliding screens and history
+stuff if you're into that. If you're not, then probably underwhelming.
+([Wikipedia][nijojo])
+
+[nijojo]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nijō_Castle
+
+
+## Stores and shops
+* Isetan department store in Kyoto station (or really any Japanese department
+ store). There's usually a section of Japanese tableware (chopsticks, bowls,
+ teapots, etc.) in the top few floors of most Japanese department stores. 9F
+ has kimonos/yukatas. 10F has stationery and tableware. As noted on the main
+ Japan page, the top floor has restaurants and the B1 floor is absolute madness
+ filled with delicious take-out food. Other alternatives are Takashimaya or
+ Daimaru in the Shijo area.
+
+
+## Anti-recommendations
+
+* Heian Shrine. Just a big massive gate, lots of gravel, and few trees.
+* Kyoto tower. Built pretty much when everyone needed some crappy tower... this
+ is the Calgary Tower of Japan.
+* Osaka Castle. I realise it's not Kyoto, but if you want a castle whose outside
+ fools you into thinking you're about to check out a historic castle, but
+ that's actually been renovated into a kind of crappy museum with an elevator
+ to the top, this is the place.
+* I'm not a huge fan of the Imperial Palace, not that it's crap, it's just big
+ and quite empty-ish. That said, I think you can get into a bunch of places now
+ that no-one ever used to be allowed in to. It's actually quite nice on rainy
+ days, but can be scorching in the summer.
diff --git a/content/japan/tokyo.md b/content/japan/tokyo.md
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+title = "Tokyo・東京"
++++
+
+## General wandering around town
+
+### Shibuya・渋谷
+Shibuya station (JR Yamanote line)・渋谷駅（山手線）and many other lines.
+
+Hachiko exit:
+* Shibuya scramble crosswalk
+* Dogenzaka/Love Hotel Hill
+
+### Harajuku・原宿
+Harajuku station (JR Yamanote line)・原宿駅（山手線）
+Jingu-mae station (Chiyoda line)・神宮前駅（千代田線）
+Meiji Jingu Mae station (Fukutoshin line)・明治神宮前駅（副都心線）
+
+Directions below are given relative to JR Harajuku Station on the Yamanote line
+since it's the easiest option.
+
+Main exit:
+* On the bridge just to the right as you exit the station, you'll find tons of
+ people dressed up on get-togethers each Sunday.
+* The entrance to Meiji shrine is also right there.
+* A bit to the left of the entrance to the shrine is Yoyogi park, where lots of
+ locals go to relax on weekends.
+* As you exit the station, cross the street to the left, and walk down
+ Omote-sando to see a bunch of trendy shops. The trees are lit up at night. At
+ the next big intersection, you can enter Omotesando station（表参道駅）and
+ take the Hanzomon line（半蔵門線）back to Shibuya station（渋谷駅）.
+
+Takenoshita exit:
+* The really well-known Takenoshita Street and all its fashion shops are to the
+ east of the station. It's easier to exit through the Takenoshita exit, but you
+ can go out the main exit and do a U-turn to the left, and follow the station
+ along till you get to the Takenoshita exit.
+
+### Shinjuku・新宿
+Tokyo's most famous business district, packed with skyscrapers and neon. Lots of
+dining with good night views over the city on the upper floors of skyscrapers.
+
+North of the station's East Exit（新宿駅東口）there's Kabuki-cho（歌舞伎町）,
+Tokyo's most famous red-light district and sort of a tourist attraction in its
+own right, just don't agree to let touts on the street take you anywhere.
+There's a fairly well-known scam in which foreigners are enticed with promises
+of all sorts of things, only to find they've been served a spiked drink and had
+their wallet emptied out. Wandering around can be quite entertaining.
+
+On the eastern edge of Kabuki-cho is Golden-gai（ゴルデン街）, a small series of
+alleyways full of tiny bars that fit 4-8 people, each of which specialises in
+some very specific drink.
+
+### Ginza・銀座
+Ginza is Tokyo's luxury shopping district, in particular along
+Chuo-dori（中央通り）. Also home to the Kabukiza theatre where you can check out
+a Kabuki show. If you like stationery shops, Itoya is 12 floors high and
+probably one of the biggest in Japan.
+
+On the water, there's Hama-rikyu Gardens (浜離宮）which is a nice Japanese style
+garden surrounded by skyscrapers.
+
+### Naka-meguro・中目黒
+Naka-meguro is a laid-back sort of hipster neighbourhood with lots of small
+cafés and restaurants, as well as the well-known Meguro canal, lined with
+cherry-blossom trees in springtime.
+
+### Azabu-juban・麻布十番
+Another laid-back neighbourhood which is a mix of cobblestone streets,
+traditional shops and trendy restaurants and cafés. It's also where a ton of
+foreign embassies are and is a relatively popular neighbourhood to live for
+European and North American locals.
+
+
+## Sports
+If you're into baseball, consider booking tickets to a
+[Yomiuri Giants][yomiuri_giants] game.
+
+If you're into football/soccer, consider booking tickets to a
+[J-league][j_league] game.
+
+[yomiuri_giants]: https://www.giants.jp/en/schedule/
+[j_league]: https://www.jleague.co
+
+
+## Anti-recommendations
+
+* If you're planning to visit Kyoto, get your temple/shrine fix there, and skip
+ Sensoji/Kaminari-mon in Asakusa.
