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     21 <h1><a href="/">Chris Bracken</a></h1>
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     35 <h2 class="post-title"><a href="https://chris.bracken.jp/2001/12/chichen-itza-yucatan-mexico/">Chichen Itzá, Yucatán, México</a></h2>
     36 26 December 2001
     37 <p>Somewhere on the old highway between Cancún and Mérida lies Chichen Itzá. The
     38 ruins at this site cover over 15 square kilometres, with <em>El Castillo</em> alone
     39 taking up 0.4 hectares. At 83 metres in length, the Ball Court is the largest
     40 in Meso-America. The close proximity of the ruins to Cancún and the size of
     41 some of the structures have made these the most famous Mayan ruins in the
     42 country.</p>
     43 <figure><img src="/post/2001-12-26-el-castillo.jpg"
     44     alt="A view from the ground below the El Castillo pyramid at Chichen Itzá. Visitors climb the steep staircase leading up the centre of the face of the pyramid. A few people stand silhouetted at the top, looking down on the surrouding jungle.">
     45 </figure>
     46 
     47 <p>The image that most people associate with Chichen Itzá is <em>El Castillo</em>. The
     48 pyramid rises more than 23 metres above the ground, with steep staircases up
     49 all four sides, leading to a small building at the top. What’s so spectacular
     50 about it is the fact that this pyramid is actually a huge Mayan calendar built
     51 of stone.  The four staircases leading to the top have 91 steps each, which
     52 when added to the platform at the top, make 365. On the sides are 52 panels
     53 representing the 52 years of the traditional Mayan calendar round. The pyramid
     54 is composed of nine terraced platforms on either side of the two primary
     55 staircases, for a total of 18, the number of months in the Mayan calendar. If
     56 you’re still not convinced of the Mayans’ astronomical prowess, you can easily
     57 convince yourself by visiting on either the spring or the fall equinox when, as
     58 the sun rises over the jungle, the form of a giant serpent is projected onto
     59 the sides of the two primary staircases, each of which has a giant stone
     60 serpent head at its base. This illusion is created by the precise alignment of
     61 the terraces in relation to position of the sun.</p>
     62 <p>In a corner in the shade of one of the giant staircases leading up the side of
     63 El Castillo is a door. Once or twice a day, the door is opened, and groups of
     64 20 or so are allowed inside. A narrow passage leads to a steep staircase that
     65 runs up the side of another pyramid inside El Castillo. It’s narrow, cramped,
     66 hot and humid, not to mention dark, but the climb is worth it. Eventually, at
     67 the top of the staircase, if you’re lucky or pushy enough, you can catch a
     68 glimpse of a jewel-encrusted jaguar altar, used by the Maya for sacrifices.</p>
     69 <figure><img src="/post/2001-12-26-ball-court.jpg"
     70     alt="The ball court at Chichen Itzá. Large, perfectly flat stone walls rise above the grass. Two stone hoops protrude, one from each wall, facing sideways. A crowd of people stands at the far end of the court.">
     71 </figure>
     72 
     73 <p>The Ball Court is another feat of engineering. The walls are each approximately
     74 8 metres high, with structures at the top for viewing the game. At either end
     75 of the court is an elaborate stone temple. But what is so amazing about the
     76 Ball Court is its acoustics. A whisper at one end can be clearly heard at the
     77 other end, 135 metres away. In fact, the sound reflection at the centre of the
     78 court is so incredible, you can hear at least nine echos if you clap or shout.</p>
     79 <p>The following excerpt, by one of the supervising archaeologists restoring the
     80 ruins, describes the acoustics:</p>
     81 <blockquote>
     82 <p>Chi cheen Itsa’s famous &lsquo;Ball-court&rsquo; or Temple of the Maize cult offers the
     83 visitor besides its mystery and impressive architecture, its marvellous
     84 acoustics If a person standing under either ring claps his hands or yells, the
     85 sound produced will be repeated several times gradually losing its volume, A
     86 single revolver shot seems machine-gun fire. The sound waves travel with equal
     87 force to East or West, day or night. disregarding the wind’s direction. Anyone
     88 speaking in a normal voice from the &lsquo;Forum&rsquo; can be clearly heard in the &lsquo;Sacred
     89 Tribune&rsquo; five hundred feet away or vice-versa. If a short sentence, for
     90 example, &lsquo;Do you hear me?&rsquo; is pronounced it will be repeated word by word&hellip;
     91 Parties from one extreme to the other can hold a conversation without raising
     92 their voices.</p>
     93 <p>This transmission of sound, as yet unexplained, has been discussed by
     94 architects and archaeologists &hellip; Most of them used to consider it as fanciful
     95 due to the ruined conditions of the structure but, on the contrary, we who have
     96 engaged in its reconstruction know well that the sound volume, instead of
     97 disappearing, has become stronger and clearer&hellip; Undoubtedly we must consider
     98 this feat of acoustics as another noteworthy achievement of engineering
     99 realized millenniums ago by the Maya technicians.</p>
    100 <p><em>—Chi Cheen Itza by Manuel Cirerol Sansores, 1947</em></p>
    101 </blockquote>
    102 <p>Aside from the Ball Court and <em>El Castillo</em>, there are dozens of other sites of
    103 interest. There are no less than three cenotes around the site, one of which
    104 was filled with tens of thousands of artifacts, from neclaces and jewelry to
    105 the bones of human and animal sacrifices. The Hall of the Thousand Pillars is
    106 also incredible to walk through, with each pillar featuring unique carvings and
    107 inscriptions; on some, traces of red and blue paint are still visible.</p>
    108 <p>The site was originally populated by the Itzáes around 500 AD, and slowly built
    109 up until 900 AD, at which point it was completely abandonned. No one knows why
    110 the Itzáes left so abruptly, but it appears that the city was re-populated
    111 about 100 years later, and then attacked by the Toltecs, a tribe known for its
    112 brutality at war. Structures from the period between 1000 and 1300 AD show
    113 marked Toltec influences, including numeral reliefs of Toltec gods, including
    114 Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent. The city was abandonned once again around
    115 1300, this time permanently.</p>
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