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     21 <h1><a href="/">Chris Bracken</a></h1>
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     35 <h2 class="post-title"><a href="https://chris.bracken.jp/2001/08/merida-yucatan-mexico/">Mérida, Yucatán, México</a></h2>
     36 17 August 2001
     37 <p>Arrived in Cancún on Friday at about 6 pm, took out some money from the bank
     38 machine, and hopped into a colectivo¹ for Ciudad Cancún—the city itself—a
     39 twenty minute drive from the long strip of hotels between the lagoon and the
     40 ocean that the outside world refers to as Cancún. By the time the colectivo got
     41 to the bus station, it was 9 pm, so after checking out the schedule and booking
     42 tickets, there was just enough time to grab some dinner and get some sleep
     43 before heading off to Mérida first thing the next morning.</p>
     44 <figure><img src="/post/2001-08-17-cathedral.jpg"
     45     alt="Façade of the Mérida cathedral in the evening light. Groups of pedestrians pass along the sidewalk in front as Volkswagen Beetles drive by.">
     46 </figure>
     47 
     48 <p>Sitting in a Mexican bus station is an activity in itself. Drenched in sweat
     49 and surrounded by hundreds of other sweaty people carrying bags, backpacks, and
     50 cardboard packages held together with twine, in heat and humidity well above
     51 what any sane person would tolerate, you gain an appreciation of just how
     52 patient a people the Mexicans are. Buses come and go as they please; to the
     53 Mexican bus driver, the posted schedule is only a guideline. Buses are
     54 notoriously late, and ours is no exception.</p>
     55 <p>When it does arrive, the bags are loaded, everyone climbs into their seats and,
     56 once the bus driver has got his drinks and snacks ready for the trip, he throws
     57 it into reverse and we´re off. After a four hour ride through the Yucatecan
     58 jungle, we arrived at the Fiesta Américana terminal in the north end of Mérida.
     59 From there, we grabbed a taxi into town and unloaded everything at Hotel Mucuy,
     60 on calle 57 between calle 56 and calle 58, where we stayed while we searched
     61 for jobs and a place to live.</p>
     62 <p>This might be a good time to explain the mysterious numbering system for the
     63 addresses in Mérida. Odd numbered streets run east-west and even numbered
     64 streets run north-south. For streets that run diagonally, the ones that run
     65 from SE to NW are even, the rest are odd—usually. Another challenge is that
     66 street addresses are not often consistent; number 499 might be three or four
     67 blocks from 498. Because of this, addresses are usually given as a street
     68 number and a cross street (for corner addresses) or a street number and the two
     69 cross streets between which the address lies.</p>
     70 <p>Mérida is the capital city of México’s Yucatán state and, centuries ago, was
     71 the capital of the Mayan empire as well. When the Spanish conquistadors arrived
     72 in the city in the mid-16th century, led by Francisco de Montejo, they
     73 discovered the Mayan city of Tihó. Its temples and limestone architecture
     74 reminded them enough of Mérida, Spain that they promptly renamed the city and
     75 began dismantling the Mayan structures. While you won’t find any of the
     76 original Mayan buildings remaining today, the cathedral in the Plaza Principal²
     77 contains blocks from the Mayan temple that once stood in the same location.</p>
     78 <p>In any case, the city today is gorgeous. Its narrow streets and colonial
     79 architecture give it a traditional feel. Every Sunday, all the streets within
     80 several blocks of the main plaza are shut down to vehicle traffic while
     81 musicians play live music near the Plaza Principal, and people dance in the
     82 streets.</p>
     83 <h3 id="glossary">Glossary</h3>
     84 <ol>
     85 <li><em>Colectivo:</em> a communal taxi, usually a VW van, into which the driver packs
     86 as many people as the laws of physics will allow. For example the last one
     87 we used had 16 people stuffed into it.</li>
     88 <li><em>Plaza Principal:</em> the main square found in almost every Mexican town.</li>
     89 </ol>
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